Starting out with healthy ducklings is paramount.  Consider the source of the ducklings prior to purchasing.  Are they coming from a reputable farm?  Does the farm prominently display current government certification of health documents with dates matching the age of the ducklings you are purchasing?  Is the farm practicing strict bio-security?

 

At Beau Peep Farms we do all of this and more!  We offer many breeds of ducklings.  We present the ducklings to the purchaser in a no-contact acrylic box for inspection (to ensure there are none with defects or any weaklings)  before they are boxed up in front of you to be taken home.  We are always willing to answer your questions and share our knowledge and expertise.

 

To see what breeds and products we offer, check out our e-commerce site:  www.beaupeepfarms.ca

Please note that water fowl should not be fed medicated feeds.

 

Tukey's, game birds, ducks and geese require higher protein feed than chickens.

 

Be sure to ask your feed dealer for the feed specific to the type and age of birds you are raising.

Feed and water.

Feed a good high protein starter crumble 26% TDG (Turkey Duck and Goose starter ration) if your feed supplier can get it for you. Place it in easy to reach wide lipped feeders (remember ducks have bills, not beaks) and keep the food nearby the water.

 

Ducks are omnivores and will eat most food items that come from the kitchen or root cellar. The rule of thumb is this: If humans eat it, ducks most likely will also—as long as it is in a form they can swallow.

 

 

Never place water directly under the heat lamp or in the hot side of the brooder. 

Provide access to fresh tepid water at all times, ensuring your ducklings can not get themselves wet is vital because they lack the oils that would protect them by repelling the water from getting to their skin.  They eventually will produce their own oils from the gland at the base of their tail.  Ducklings raised by a mother duck have oil that has rubbed off of the adult duck s plumage and onto them, thus protecting them.  

 

Your ducklings do love water, and will love to swim.  This is OK for short supervised periods of time in tepid water only!  After each swim the ducklings must be dried fully and returned to the brooder to stay warm. 

 

 

 

 

Ducklings will need a source of heat for the first 4 weeks.

A brooder of some sort to keep them warm. A simple brooder lamp with a heat lamp bulb will keep them warm. Make sure they are in a draft free place and have enough room to get away from the heat if they feel too warm. Raise the height of the lamp a little each week. (you don't want them to burn the tops of their heads!) Most ducklings can begin to be weaned off heat after three weeks of age. Take care in not making any sudden changes to their environment. When they are ready, give them the choice of staying in or exploring outside of their brooder for a week or two. Wait until they are comfortable in their new surroundings before shutting them out of the brooder area all together. You do not want to stress your ducklings!

 

Ducklings will need a source of heat for the first 4 - 6 weeks.

A brooder of some sort to keep them warm. A simple brooder lamp with a heat lamp bulb will keep them warm. Make sure they are in a draft free place and have enough room to get away from the heat if they feel too warm. Raise the height of the lamp a little each week. (you don't want them to burn the tops of their heads!) Most ducklings can begin to be weaned off heat after three weeks of age. Take care in not making any sudden changes to their environment. When they are ready, give them the choice of staying in or exploring outside of their brooder for a week or two. Wait until they are comfortable in their new surroundings before shutting them out of the brooder area all together. You do not want to stress your ducklings!

The brooder set up for Ducklings. published on our Facebook page April 9/23

 

What temperature should ducklings be brooding?

On the warm end of the brooder the temperature needs to be 32 - 35 Celsius (90-95 degrees Fahrenheit) for the first week, then decrease your temperature by 6 degrees Celsius (5 Fahrenheit) each week for the first three weeks of life. At this point, they will not need supplemental heat, as long as they are in a 20 Celsius (70-degree Fahrenheit) climate-controlled environment. Be sure to have a warm end and a cool end (area) in your brooder set up and never position the water source directly beneath the heat source.

 

Ducklings still require heat to stay warm (20C, 70F) until they are about 5 to 6 weeks old. A heat source may or may not be required for all or parts of the day depending on the time of year and the temperatures of the environment.

 

If the ducklings are active and moving around the brooder, they are probably just right. If they are huddled together under the heat lamp, they are probably too cold and if they are all dispersed around the non-heated end of the brooder, they are probably too hot.

Ensure you have a enough space in your brooder for the number of ducklings you have. Ducklings grow incredibly quickly in the first two weeks of life, the average duckling gains 7 times their birth weight

 

 

Fully grown ducks can thrive in sub-zero temperatures provided that they are given adequate protection from frostbite, which can damage their limbs. When it comes to high temperatures, try to keep them under temperatures of around 32C / 90 F.

Observe your ducklings regularly.

Observe your ducklings regularly.  If they become listless (droopy) they may be to hot or to cold if the bedding they lay on is damp or dirty. Be sure that the ducklings can not get themselves wet from their water source or damp bedding as a "wet duckling is a dead duckling". Even if a duckling sits under a heat lamp on it's own after becoming wet, it's breast will not dry and it will become chilled.

 

Their needs change rapidly as they grow rapidly.

 

 

Just toss some fresh or frozen peas into your ducks' water tub and watch how excited that makes them.

Ducks can definitely eat peas, fresh, frozen or even dried. (Do not feed frozen peas to ducklings unless they are fully thawed first, adult birds enjoy them frozen on hot days.) Although ducks generally like anything green floating in water, but they especially love peas and there just might be a good reason for that. Peas are high in Niacin.

 

What is Niacin?

Niacin, or Vitamin B3, is an essential nutrient for young bones as they develop and grow. It also helps the body use fat, carbs and protein and turn it all into energy.

A water-soluble amino acid, Niacin is necessary for both chickens and ducks, but ducks need more than chickens do, and since Niacin isn't stored in the body, they need a steady supply of it in their diet.

Ducks (and geese) need Niacin BP Facebook April 12/23

Ducklings and goslings grow very fast, so without strong legs to support their every-increasing body weight, they can really suffer the effects of a niacin deficiency pretty quickly.

 

Niacin, or Vitamin B3, is important for all living things to grow strong bones. Ducks need more niacin than chickens, so if you're feeding your ducks chicken feed, you'll need to provide them other sources of niacin. Peas are just one great source of niacin for your flock.

 

The importance of Niacin supplements for waterfowl

Growing ducks need a lot of niacin to mature and develop. Not only does it help ducks convert food into energy, but it also supports healthy skin, bones, muscles, and organs. Unfortunately, it is a pretty common problem for young ducks to have niacin deficiency.

Duck owners should understand what niacin is, its signs, how to diagnose it, and how to prevent and treat niacin deficiency in ducks.

If you’re a duck owner concerned about your duck’s niacin intake or if you’ve noticed potential signs of deficiency in your ducks, you’ll want to continue reading to learn more.

 

What is Niacin?

Niacin, or B3, is a vitamin that the body uses to convert food into energy. It supports healthy nervous and digestive systems as well as healthy skin and muscles.

As one of the eight vitamins occurring naturally in many foods, you can find it in yeast, grains, vegetables, and meats.

Niacin comes in two chemical varieties: nicotinic acid and niacinamide or nicotinamide. The body does not store it because it is a water-soluble vitamin. Any excess will therefore be excreted from a duck’s body.

A duck’s body absorbs B3 in the gut, intestines, and stomach. The body’s tissues convert niacin into the following coenzymes: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP). Both are required to change food into energy.

 

Most niacin in a duck’s diet comes from nicotinamide, but some duck foods contain NAD and NADP. It may be difficult to find a commercial food formulated for Ducks and Geese (TDG or Turkey Duck and Goose feed), so feeding non-medicated chick feed with a side of B3 (Niacin) supplement is just as good. B3 / Niacin supplement is sold at Beau Peep Farms store.

What are the Signs of Niacin Deficiency in Ducks?

Firstly, a lack of B3 typically occurs in ducks when they are two to seven weeks old because this is when ducks are experiencing their most rapid growth. Ducks generally do not experience niacin deficit past ten weeks of age.

The typical signs of niacin deficiency are as follows:

Bowed legs

Swollen hock joints

Low weight gain

Weakness

Frequent sitting

Inability to walk

Pigeon toes

Failure to thrive

Keep a watch out for any of these signs in your young duck. If you notice them, ensure to check for niacin deficiency as soon as possible.

 

When left untreated, it can lead to deformities of the legs and other body parts and a lifelong inability to walk, seizures, and even death. For these reasons, it is vital to prevent and treat niacin deficits in ducks quickly.

 

Causes of Niacin Deficiency

Simply put, it occurs when there is not enough niacin in a duck’s diet. This can result from using the wrong feed.

An example includes free-ranging versus farmed ducks. Free-ranging ducks experience niacin deficiency far less frequently than farmed ducks because they can eat various sources. On the other hand, farmed ducks often eat chicken feed, which contains far less niacin than ducks need.

Since ducks require about twice as much B3 as chickens, farmed ducks are likely to develop a lack of B3. All due to having the wrong feed.

 

Diagnosing Niacin Deficiency

While collecting and testing urine can give you a definitive diagnosis of niacin deficiency, this is a somewhat tricky process, and most opt not to do it. Instead, most people diagnose it simply by noticing signs and responding.

You’ll know if niacin deficit is the culprit in your duckling’s failure to thrive if they respond to B3 supplementation in their diets. This response will include weight gain, increased strength, straightening of the legs, and increased walking and swimming. If you are unsure, seek veterinary care for a proper diagnosis.

 

Preventing Niacin Deficiency

The best way to prevent niacin deficits is to ensure your duck has a diet high in niacin. Ducklings need approximately 10 mg of niacin each day. Adult ducks need even more at about 12.5 mg each day. This is twice as much niacin as chickens require and about eighty-three percent of the amount of niacin needed by humans. Humans need approximately 14-16 mg of niacin each day, only 1.5-3.5 mg more than what is required by ducks.

There are several ways to prevent a lack of niacin in ducks.

Using a Feed Formulated for Ducks

It is common among those who keep ducks to offer chicken feed as the primary source of nutrition. However, because ducks require much more B3 than chickens, offering only chicken feed can lead to insufficient niacin consumption.

 

Offering your Duck Foods Rich in Niacin

In addition to offering feed designed explicitly for ducks and waterfowl, try offering your duck whole foods that are rich in niacin. These include:

Peas

Potatoes (with skin)

Wheat

Rice

Insects

Worms

Slugs

SnailsSmall fish

Brewer’s Yeast

A note on brewer’s yeast: It is preferable to feed ducks human-grade brewer’s yeast. This is because human-grade brewer’s yeast is higher in niacin than livestock grade. Human-grade brewer’s yeast contains approximately 5mg of niacin for every one tablespoon compared to the 1.5 mg of niacin per tablespoon typically found in livestock-grade brewer’s yeast.

 

Allowing your Ducks to Free-Range

Another way to prevent niacin deficits in ducks is to allow them to free-range. It occurs far less frequently in free-range ducks and geese because they naturally feed on good sources of niacin, like flies, snails, and other insects.

Ducks are natural hunters and will seek out the food they need that is high in niacin. When ducks free-range, you’ll also have less feed to buy as your ducks will be consuming grass, bugs, and larvae in the environment. Generally, the definition of free-range is a natural environment that affords each duck about 20 square feet of space.

Keep in mind, if you free range your ducks, that you’ll still want to take measures to protect them from predators. This can include fencing off the area where your ducks are free-range to keep predators out and/or coop your ducks at night.

Unlike chickens, ducks don’t naturally coop themselves at night. However, once you start the routine of herding your ducks into the coop each night, you may find they get used to this practice and start moving to the coop on their own when nighttime falls.

 

Treating Niacin Deficiency

Ducklings hatch with a 2-3 day reserve supply of niacin from their mothers. After this period, you can notice niacin deficiencies if ducklings are not getting enough niacin from their diets. As soon as you see this, you’ll want to start treating it immediately.

You can begin treating by offering foods high in niacin to supplement your duck’s diet. Just remember "Grit before goodies!" (article posted here on Thursday April 6 "Nitty Gritty")

If supplemental feeding is insufficient or undesirable for treating, you can offer natural niacin supplements to your ducks. These include niacin tablets and liquid niacin. You can find these products at Beau Peep Farms' store.

If using niacin tablets, you want to grind the pills up and add them to your duck’s feed. Generally, you want to add 1000 mg of niacin for every one cup of duck feed. This should get you to the proper dose of niacin for young ducks.

With liquid niacin the dose is about 500 mg of B3 per 4 gallons of water.

While it is possible to overdose a duck on niacin, this is very rare and unlikely for your ducks experiencing niacin deficiency.

A note about niacin tablets: It is common to find niacin tablets in slow or extended-release varieties. Some niacin tablets are manufactured for human consumption because they prevent niacin flush, a common condition in people taking high doses of niacin.

Because you are grinding the tablets to add to your duck’s feed, you will negate any slow-release properties they hold. Furthermore, slow-release tablets contain additives that allow them to be absorbed more slowly by the human body. You’ll want to avoid feeding these additives to your ducks, so opt for a standard niacin tablet rather than the slow-release variety.

Liquid niacin is an alternative to niacin tablets. Liquid niacin can be added to the water you give your ducks. Consider offering liquid niacin supplements or made for poultry powdered supplements in your ducks drinking water.

 

Conclusion

While niacin deficiency is relatively common in ducks, you can easily spot, prevent, and treat it.

 

 

Understanding the signs of niacin deficiency and being familiar with your supplementation options will help you prevent and treat niacin deficiency in your ducks. This will ensure you raise the healthiest, happiest ducks you can for years to come.

 

 

To learn more about poultry we also recommend you visit these sites:

www.poultrypedia.com for great information regarding poultry health and nutrition

http://mikethechickenvet.wordpress.com/ Poultry Veterinarian

Starting out with healthy goslings is paramount.  Consider the source of the goslings prior to purchasing.  Are they coming from a reputable farm?  Does the farm prominently display current government certification of health documents with dates matching the age of the goslings you are purchasing?  Is the farm practicing strict bio-security?

 

At Beau Peep Farms we do all of this and more!  We also offer goslings of many breeds.  We present the goslings to the purchaser in either a no-contact acrylic box or other means of no-contact viewing (no-contact is important for biosecurity) for inspection (to ensure there are none with defects or any weaklings)  before they are boxed up in front of you to be taken home.  We are always willing to answer your questions and share our knowledge and expertise.

 

To see what breeds and products we offer, check out our e-commerce site:  www.beaupeepfarms.ca

Please note that water fowl should not be fed medicated feeds.

 

Tukey's, game birds, ducks and geese require higher protein feed than chickens.

 

Be sure to ask your feed dealer for the feed specific to the type and age of birds you are raising.

Feed and water.

Feed a good high protein starter crumble 26% TDG (Turkey Duck and Goose starter ration) if your feed supplier can get it for you. Place it in easy to reach wide lipped feeders (remember geese have bills, not beaks) and keep the food nearby the water.

 

Geese are herbivores and will eat most vegetable scraps that come from the kitchen or root cellar. The rule of thumb is this: If it's a veggie safe for humans to eat, geese most likely will also—as long as it is in a form they can swallow.

 

 

 

Never place water directly under the heat lamp or in the hot side of the brooder. 

Provide access to fresh tepid water at all times, ensuring your goslings can not get themselves wet is vital because they lack the oils that would protect them by repelling the water from getting to their skin.  They eventually will produce their own oils from the gland at the base of their tail.  Goslings raised by a mother goose have oil that has rubbed off of the adult duck s plumage and onto them, thus protecting them.  

 

Your goslings do love water, and will love to swim.  This is OK for short supervised periods of time in tepid water only!  After each swim the ducklings must be dried fully and returned to the brooder to stay warm. 

 

 

Goslings will need a source of heat for the first 4 weeks.

A brooder of some sort to keep them warm. A simple brooder lamp with a heat lamp bulb will keep them warm. Make sure they are in a draft free place and have enough room to get away from the heat if they feel too warm. Raise the height of the lamp a little each week. (you don't want them to burn the tops of their heads!) Most goslings can begin to be weaned off heat after three weeks of age. Take care in not making any sudden changes to their environment. When they are ready, give them the choice of staying in or exploring outside of their brooder for a week or two. Wait until they are comfortable in their new surroundings before shutting them out of the brooder area all together. You do not want to stress your goslings!

 

Observe your goslings regularly.

Observe your goslings regularly.  If they become listless (droopy) they may be to hot or to cold if the bedding they lay on is damp or dirty. Be sure that the goslings can not get themselves wet from their water source or damp bedding as a "wet gosling without it's natural oils is a dead gosling". Even if a gosling sits under a heat lamp on it's own after becoming wet, it's breast will not dry and it will become chilled.

 

Their needs change rapidly as they grow rapidly.  Make certain to expand the amount of brooder space and the overall height of the heat lamp as they grow.  Never overcrowd your goslings.

 

 

Brooding and rearing of goslings. Article can also be found on our Facebook page April 10/23

 

Day-old goslings need a brooder temperature between 32° and 35°C (90° and 95°F) the same as ducklings. Reduce the temperature in your brooder by about 5 or 6°C (10°F) per week until it is the same as the room temperature, by continually raising the height of the heat lamp. In order to make sure that your goslings have a comfortable temperature throughout their growth period, put a thermometer in the brooder and monitor its progress.

 

If goslings are panting with their beaks open and not huddling up together, they are too hot. Similarly, if they are constantly in a tight huddle, you need to increase the temperature in the brooder a few degrees. Keep a close eye on your new goslings in their first few days of life, and you will quickly learn how they behave when they are happy and comfortable.

Space

 

Ensure your brooder area is large enough for your goslings. Goslings will double their size weekly for the first several weeks.

 

Food and Water

Goslings need constant access to food and water. When they first arrive, they may have difficulty eating or display a lack of interest in dry crumble, so it is a good idea to soak their food in water before offering it. Wait until you have a soupy consistency, and your goslings will be sure to gobble up the crumble. Never give goslings medicated feed or medicated chick starter, which is not formulated for them.

I

n order to eat, geese need to be able to submerge their beaks fully in water; otherwise, their nostrils can become plugged with remnants of food, preventing them from breathing. A classic chick waterer with a plastic trough wide and deep enough for their bills (available at Beau Peep Farms store or in any feed store), allows them to dip their beaks fully underwater. A homemade alternative is an empty 5-gallon milk jug with small holes cut into all four sides, large enough for your goslings to fit their heads through comfortably. Fill the gallon jug up to the holes with water, and this will allow them to douse their beaks without creating a mess. Keep the water source close to the food source.

 

Goslings should not be offered swimming water at first. Their downy feathers do not have the waterproofing that adult goose feathers have, and they can easily catch a chill if they get soaked. Wild goslings are coated with the oils from their mother's and are able to dry off in their mother’s downy wings under her warm body after a swim, but goslings in a brooder can lose body heat quickly.

 

After a week or two, you can start introducing the young birds to supervised swimming. Just remember to towel dry them gently after they bathe and return them to their warm brooder. When their pinfeathers start coming in, they should be able to swim regularly, as long as the water is shallow and easy for them to enter and exit without assistance.

 

Keeping the Brooder Clean

Bedding wood pellets, pine shavings, hay, peat moss, and straw are all suitable bedding options for young geese. We recommend a thick layer of pine or softwood bedding pellets in the brooder because they are highly absorbent and won’t hold an odor, which is very helpful with goslings’ messy droppings and poor table manners. The most absorbent bedding is peat moss, but is often exorbitantly expensive. Wood bedding pellets and pine shavings are both available at Beau Peep Farms store. Straw and peat moss are both available at garden centers and feed stores in large bales while hay is available by the bale at feed stores.

Geese are naturally messy creatures. Even without open water, there will be spills that soak through the shavings quickly, meaning regular changing of their bedding is required to keep the brooder smelling fresh and to prevent possible diseases. Be prepared to do a quick clean and refresher at least once or twice a week — more often as your geese get larger. Once they are 4 to 6 weeks old, it will be time to start transitioning them to their adult housing.

 

Treats and Outside Time.

Just remember "Grit before goodies!" (see "Nitty Gritty" article posted Thursday April 6)

Because they are hardier than chicks, goslings can start exploring the out- doors earlier but only with your close supervision to keep them from getting lost or attacked by a predator. Goslings can enjoy an hour or two out on the grass within their first few days of life. They will love being able to stretch their legs outside the brooder, and relish the opportunity to munch on fresh grass stems. Taking the time to sit with them during their outside activity also helps to ensure that they will imprint on you.

 

Unlike ducks and chickens, geese are vegetarians. Their favorite treats will always be fresh greens. Keeping a good supply of green leaves in their brooder is a great way to ensure they get the nutrition needed to grow up healthy and strong. You can offer them fresh-cut lettuce or spinach from your garden, or even regular grass clippings. You can even try hanging a head of lettuce from the top of the brooder for them to nibble on as they desire. Plants rich in vitamins and minerals, like beet greens or kale, are also especially healthy for your goslings to enjoy.

 

Raise a gaggle of geese, the unsung heroes of the small farm!

 

 

Geese are the historic unsung heroes of small farms and homesteads. Providing weed control, large eggs, and entertainment and acting as “security” over other animals, geese are the ultimate modern homesteading companion.

 

Just toss some fresh or frozen peas into your geese and ducks' water tub and watch how excited that makes them!

Ducks and geese can definitely eat peas, fresh, frozen or even dried. (Do not feed frozen peas to goslings nor ducklings unless they are fully thawed first, adult birds enjoy them frozen on hot days.) Although goslings and ducks generally like anything green floating in water, they especially love peas and there just might be a good reason for that. Peas are high in Niacin.

 

What is Niacin?

Niacin, or Vitamin B3, is an essential nutrient for young bones as they develop and grow. It also helps the body use fat, carbs and protein and turn it all into energy.

A water-soluble amino acid, Niacin is necessary for both chickens and goslings, but waterfowl need more than chickens do, and since Niacin isn't stored in the body, they need a steady supply of it in their diet.

 

Goslings (and ducks) need Niacin ( published on our Facebook page in April 12/23):

Goslings and goslings grow very fast, so without strong legs to support their every-increasing body weight, they can really suffer the effects of a niacin deficiency pretty quickly.

Niacin, or Vitamin B3, is important for all living things to grow strong bones. Geese need more niacin than chickens, so if you're feeding your goslings chicken feed, you'll need to provide them other sources of niacin. Peas are just one great source of niacin for your flock.

 

The importance of Niacin supplements for waterfowl

Growing goslings need a lot of niacin to mature and develop. Not only does it help ducks convert food into energy, but it also supports healthy skin, bones, muscles, and organs. Unfortunately, it is a pretty common problem for young goslings to have niacin deficiency.

 

Goose owners should understand what niacin is, its signs, how to diagnose it, and how to prevent and treat niacin deficiency in geese.

 

If you’re a goose owner concerned about your geese’s niacin intake or if you’ve noticed potential signs of deficiency in your geese, you’ll want to continue reading to learn more.

 

What is Niacin?

Niacin, or B3, is a vitamin that the body uses to convert food into energy. It supports healthy nervous and digestive systems as well as healthy skin and muscles.

As one of the eight vitamins occurring naturally in many foods, you can find it in yeast, grains, vegetables, and meats. Geese are herbivores so they must get all of their nutrition from plants. Foraging on grass is a food source rich in B3.

 

Niacin comes in two chemical varieties: nicotinic acid and niacinamide or nicotinamide. The body does not store it because it is a water-soluble vitamin. Any excess will therefore be excreted from a duck’s body.

A duck’s body absorbs B3 in the gut, intestines, and stomach. The body’s tissues convert niacin into the following coenzymes: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP). Both are required to change food into energy.

Most niacin in a duck’s diet comes from nicotinamide, but some duck foods contain NAD and NADP. It may be difficult to find a commercial food formulated for Ducks and Geese (TDG or Turkey Duck and Goose feed), so feeding non-medicated chick feed with a side of B3 (Niacin) supplement is just as good. B3 / Niacin supplement is sold at Beau Peep Farms store.

What are the Signs of Niacin Deficiency in goslings?

Firstly, a lack of B3 typically occurs in goslings when they are two to seven weeks old because this is when goslings are experiencing their most rapid growth. Ducks generally do not experience niacin deficit past ten weeks of age while geese require a high niacin diet for their whole life.

The typical signs of niacin deficiency are as follows:

Bowed legs

Swollen hock joints

Low weight gain

Weakness

Frequent sitting

Inability to walk

Pigeon toes

Failure to thrive

Keep a watch out for any of these signs in your young duck. If you notice them, ensure to check for niacin deficiency as soon as possible.

When left untreated, it can lead to deformities of the legs and other body parts and a lifelong inability to walk, seizures, and even death. For these reasons, it is vital to prevent and treat niacin deficits in ducks quickly.

Causes of Niacin Deficiency

 

 

Simply put, it occurs when there is not enough niacin in a gosling’s diet. This can result from using the wrong feed.

 

 

To learn more about poultry we also recommend you visit these sites:

www.poultrypedia.com for great information regarding poultry health and nutrition

http://mikethechickenvet.wordpress.com/ Poultry Veterinarian